The flat, sprawling capital of Phnom Penh is also an alluring attraction in its own right. Wide, sweeping boulevards and elegant, if neglected, French colonial style facades lend the city a romantic appeal. However, theres also stark evidence of great poverty, a reminder that youre visiting one of the worlds poorest countries.

Those enterprising travellers who look beyond the standard itinerary of Angkor and Phnom Penh will be rewarded with a rich variety of experiences. Its worth stopping off for a day halfway between Angkor and Phnom Penh, at Kompong Thom, to make a side trip to the pre Angkor ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk. Here you can explore several groups of early brick built towers with scarcely another tourist in sight.

Miles of unspoilt beaches and remote islands offer sandy seclusion along the southern coastline. Although Sihanoukville is the main port of call, its easy enough to commandeer transport to nearby hidden coves and offshore islands, with only the odd fisherman or smuggler to interrupt your solitude.

Rattanakiri province in the north eastern corner of the country, with its hill tribes and volcanic scenery, is also becoming increasingly popular with visitors.

Neighbouring Mondulkiri is less well known, but equally impressive, offering dramatic alpinesque woodlands, villages and mountains.

In the central plains, Battambang, Cambodias second city, is a sleepy provincial capital, and the gateway to the old Khmer Rouge stronghold of Pailin.

Getting around Cambodia is really no problem, although its often a less than comfortable exercise; the road system still leaves a lot to be desired and travel outside the main tourist routes can be slow and punishing.

Cambodias creates two distinct seasons.